»Even more important, in addition to physical preparation, is mental preparation to meet the emerging rigors and mental challenges. Mostly only one attempt remains. In the end, the mountain decides.«

How it all began

For high-altitude mountaineers there is only one way: up. Marc Grün’s ascent began over fifteen years ago, when he first conquered a peak that was not immediately hikable. Since then, the project engineer and native of Ulm, Germany, has faced ever new heights: first the four-thousand-meter peaks of the Alps, then the Stok Kangri in India (6,153), the Aconcagua in Argentina (6,961), the Pik Lenin (7,134) on the border between Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan, and finally the Himlung Himal (7,126) in the world’s highest mountain range, the Himalayas.

On mountains like the Himlung at -30° C the simplest things and needs like eating, toilet or washing become a problem. The cold is compounded by the thin high-altitude air, which can lead to high-altitude intoxication. »You are no longer in control of your senses and have to make vital decisions, realistically assess your strength and solve unforeseen problems as quickly as possible. Otherwise, in the worst case, you get up the mountain, but you don’t get back.« Respect and humility for the mountain and nature are especially important to Marc; sometimes the only way is to turn back when the mountain threatens one’s life. Because in order to get further up, sometimes you first have to go back down.

Training in 5 disciplines

What most people don’t realize, extreme mountaineering is mainly a matter of head and mental strength. Marc’s training preparation consists of 30% physical and 70% mental training. In addition to strength training, yoga and cycling, Marc trains his fitness by mountain running in the Allgäu. In the endurance run of several hours is sprinted up the mountain and during the gondola descent briefly take a breather, sometimes over 8 hours and min. 4,000 meters of altitude away with heavy backpack and weight cuffs on the feet (mountain boots simulation). While running, he solves possible problems that may arise during the expedition, to be able to react quickly and calmly in the rush of altitude.

Follow-up report Manaslu Expedition 2023

“The expedition got off to a sensational start: the journey in the jeeps, the trek to the mountain and the team arrived on time and in good health,” Marc Grün.

Over the course of two weeks, the group, consisting of 30 Sherpas (mountain guides), yak guides, kitchen helpers, a cook and five mountaineers, set up the three high-altitude camps at 5,800, 6,300 and 6,800 meters. The regular ascent and descent allowed climbers and Sherpas to acclimatize optimally.

“Normally the mountain decides, but this time I had to make the decision myself.”

The actual ascent to the summit is only a fraction of the expedition, a day on which everything must fit: Weather, physical condition – in short, all the general conditions. The ascent to the summit always takes place in teams of 2. After Marc and his Sherpa Norbu reached the third base camp and rested for a few hours, they left at 6 pm on the evening of September 27 towards the summit.

But already when we set out, a storm was raging that made all the other climbers from the group turn back after a few hours. Only Marc and his Sherpa continued to fight their way towards the summit until Marc realized that Norbu’s oxygen regulator had failed. When Norbu was completely exhausted and apathetic at 7,800 meters, Marc decided to retire.

There was nothing going on on the mountain that day, the risk of tackling the last 300 meters in the death zone to the summit alone and leaving Norbu exhausted was too high for Marc.

“I was in a good mood, I had the power and would have loved to be up there. I’m super sad.”

Manaslu remains Marc’s dream and will certainly be on his list of summits again.

👉 F ollow us on social media for his next adventure!

News from our mountaineer Marc